"No turn is a wrong turn"
A one day example of “laid back travel” ….
or Backroad surprises bring unheralded site!
Suzie and I travel in a casual manner, one that suits our needs and mentality. We’re the first to admit it’s not
a style for everyone. We’ve been to Europe about 9 times in the past 6 years, and plan on keeping the same (very
lucky) travel schedule. That’s why we stop whenever and wherever either of us wants, or we just look and drive
on (without any guilt feelings) if nothing catches our fancy. Laid-back “go with the flow” travel. Yes, I’ve said
it before, but it bears repeating. It’s central to our enjoyment and sharing our travels with each other.
In June ‘01, we experienced just one more example of just such enjoyment. As we drove through the Austrian Alps
south of Salzburg, we decided to alter our loose original plans (a not unusual occurrence), leave the Austrian
Alps and catch the autobahn toward Salzburg late in the day. We thought we might turn off near Salzburg to find
a small zimmer. Flying down the a-bahn we rounded a mountainside to see a huge castle that almost took my breath
away.
The castle, unopposed in its majesty high on a hilltop, was so imposing it refused to be ignored. Then we realized we had just passed the last ausfahrt for miles. One of those a-bahn service centers suddenly appeared and we quickly exited to get our bearings. As I pulled up to park and ask the name of the castle, Suzie noticed a sign that pointed north to Salzburg and SOUTH to a berg called Werfen. South took us back UNDER the a-bahn and to the castle town of Werfen. The sign said “Werfen Castle.” Boy do we get lucky as we travel!
We arrive in Werfen at about 1800 hours. Shops are closed. The little berg of Werfen is nice, quiet, and from all
appearances, more a “pass by” than a “tourist stop.” We settled on the old town area, checked a few zimmers (looking
at the rooms etc), and chose one. Little did we know, this was to become one of our top 10 favorite zimmers in
all our travels to date. Gastehaus Erzherzog Eugen, with it’s pink front overlooking the quaint, old, cobble stoned
street was no obvious attraction above others, but it did look neat, clean and smelled good as we walked in the
door. Little did we know (later we learned from internet at home) it is a 4 star gastehaus. Just look at those
prices…for a FOUR STAR. Value is unbelievable!!
Gästehaus Erzherzog Eugen
Markt 38
5450 Werfen
Austria
Tel - 06468/5210 ~ Fax 06468/75523
Email - obauer-krieger@sbg.at
12 Rooms with bath/shower/toilet, phone, radio, TV, minibar, hairdryer, safe
Price: $US 37 to $US 92
For limited internet information, please
see:
http://interhotel.com/austria/en/hoteles/20325.html
Evening dinner was at the only sidewalk
café that had customers. It just happened to be across the street from our gastehaus zimmer. Even though
locals of all ages were in and out, sitting and visiting, we appeared the only tourists in the town. Another reason
we decided tourists were rare was the obvious conversations of the elders around us and the eyes that continually
looked our way, more in curiosity than criticism.
Our waiter was friendly, spoke broken English, and seemed interested, so we visited. He told us he was a refugee
from Bosnia. When he learned we were from Texas, his eyes lit up and he said, “Do you own oil wells?” When we replied
“No, we’re just plain people” he seemed more unbelieving than let down. But we still had great conversations through
our meal and a couple of after dinner drinks. Afterwards we strolled up and down the cobblestoned main street,
looking in windows, a few hotel lobbies, and reading restaurant menus posted outside empty establishments.
As daylight dimmed, we finally returned to Gästehaus Erzherzog Eugen where we met an exciting older man who
turned out to be the father of the owner and a former owner of the zimmer. He was charming and very excited to
learn we were from the U.S. Out came his autographed pictures of past “American visitors”… including Elizabeth
Taylor, Richard Burton, and Clint Eastwood, who were guests during a location movie shoot (Remember the movie “Where
Eagles Dare?”) and a host of other world renown recognizable personalities. The old man was also an artist of beautiful
metal sculptures as well as a highly decorated chef. His restaurant is just down the street, but it was closed
for the day.
The old man spoke not a word of English, and our German is limited at best, but his enthusiasm and sparkling, excited
eyes were just too much to ignore. Our 30 minute visit produced unbelievable communication, fun, and friendship.
And his tour of the gastehaus opened our eyes to a hidden beauty of his “world class” appreciation of art, craftsmanship,
and collections. Also his trove of gifts from the above mentioned dignitaries of bygone years would fill hours
of time, given the time.
Our rooms were wonderful, roomy, and very comfortable. They included an ante-area between the front door and the
door to our room, a large bedroom, and a large bathroom, complete with so many of the finer touches. Small sitting
area with television (with satellite) and PPD Bar (Pay Per Drink). Our back windows overlooked the beautiful garden
behind the gastehaus, and we even had our own little screened-in porch large enough for a small table-for-two.
The next morning after a wonderful breakfast, we headed for the Hohenwerfen Castle. Hohenwerfen is a former fortification
dating from the 11th century, It towers high above the Salzach Valley and the river Salzach south of the city of
Salzburg. It was built by the archbishops, who ruled Salzburg as independent princes until the Napoleonic Wars.
Hohenwerfen dates from the second half of the 11th century and was a key fortress controlling the approach to Salzburg
from the south. After 1815 it passed into the hands of the imperial family, who carried out wide-reaching renovations.
Remember those walks from the parking lots
to the castles high above? This site too required a hike from the parking lot, around winding trails umbrellaed
by trees, to the top of the hill and the castle. But this one was worth it. And, as is often the case, when we
arrived at the top, we found that a taxi service was available for those not wanting to hike. But this castle was
definitely worth the effort, and the morning proved fun as we met and visited with other tourists, some American,
as we toured the castle. The actual history of this castle pales in comparison to its intimidating majesty imposed
on the countryside.
The castle high above the river Salzach south of the city of Salzburg, was built by the archbishops, who ruled
Salzburg as independent princes until the Napoleonic Wars. Hohenwerfen dates from the second half of the 11th century
and was a key fortress controlling the approach to Salzburg from the south. After 1815 it passed into the hands
of the imperial family, who carried out wide-reaching renovations.
Inside, the castle was not the least baroque. In fact, it was very plain. Built as a military fortress, it has
basically remained such over its history. Military armaments, most original, were on display.
Also, the castle houses a falconry museum and the keepers put on a show with trained hunting birds, demonstrating the hunting skills of many different birds of all sizes.
It was a full morning that could have taken only an hour and a half just to tour the castle, but we stretched it
into 3 hours. Inside the castle walls it was hilly, many steps, and a real hike just around the castle grounds.
Our castle tour was given by a young lady who was soon to be married and would honeymoon in the U.S. and Carribean. She was cute, and as we had our picture taken together, her soft hand on my neck made me blush like a teen-ager, to the joy of the crowd.
For more information on Hohenwerfen Castle, go to:
http://www.whereeaglesdare.com/art/artb2.htm
http://www.viaimperialis.at/memberpage_english.php?number=10
Finally, we walked back down the winding trail to the parking lot, and pointed our little Mercedes SUV toward Salzburg
and on to Munich. It was only about 18 hours ago we first spotted this impressive man made creation. While its
modest interior is more realistic of its centuries old true time and purpose, its majestic mountaintop intimidation
still stand strongly in my memory.
Not a bad experience for a “What was that?”… “I don’t know let’s turn around and see…..”
Suzie and I hope you all have many wonderful travels, experiencing it all your way, seeing what you like. It’s
great for lasting friendships!
