"No turn is a wrong turn"
Driving the backroads...
As some of you read this, Suzie and I will
be driving the back roads somewhere in southern Germany, Austria Tirol or Switzerland’s Berner Oberland. You see,
we don’t even know where we’re going and we leave in 4 days. But that is the way we choose to travel. Also, as
you’ll see, some surprises take a sense of humor!
On our first such trip (9 trips ago) I thought I knew European street signs pretty well, so in Salzburg (Austria)
I turned down a quiet street and drove about a block into a park, only to learn I was on a bike trail. The only
way out was to back up to where I turned in. The “Austrian Stare” is something to behold when you screw up like
that!
Even last year, I was driving in Trier, blindly following a bus or truck or some big thing, and before I knew it
I found myself in the middle of a pedestrian zone. Well a little old German lady was really giving me “what for”…how
dare I drive in a Pedestrian Zone??? The older Germans are really adamant when it comes to right and wrong. So
I just rolled down the window, loudly proclaimed, “Amerikaner” and shrugged… she and all around her laughed, shouted
“Auf Wiedershen” and waved as I headed for the nearest street and turned… the wrong way into a one way street,
with the cars honking as I did a big U turn and left in the proper direction.
Now’s the time I tell you Suzie and My travel motto is “No turn is a wrong turn”… well there are some exceptions.
But we have had so many wonderful experiences driving the back roads, and you will too if you choose to drive.
As you drive the back roads, don’t let speed be your main concern. Remember to look up towards the hilltops. Castles
abound in Germany (over 20,000 castles in all states of repair!) and sometimes you’ll find ruins to explore, while
other times you can visit beautiful places few guidebooks even know! In the “middle of no-where” you’ll also find
beautiful palaces (residenz) with huge elegantly manicured grounds.
Many unknown to travel books, but open to visitors. Go! See! Experience! Some have not been “updated” and the worn uneven stone floors are the same walked on for hundreds of years. The wood may show scars of battles past (centuries past). The tapestries centuries old on the same wall. The ornate carvings on doorways, fireplaces, and other areas are so huge, magnificent, and ornate that without pictures, people back home will not believe your stories.
Back in the car driving down the wonderful all weather country roads, don’t be surprised to see the road blocked
by cows or sheep being driven down the road to a new pasture. Just stop, turn off your engine, roll down your window,
listen to the bells tinkle, and hear the sounds as the new country you’re visiting surround you.
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Sometimes we get so enamoured with the centuries old buildings right up to the edge of the road, we forget where
we’re going. The Germany we came to see is right here! Twisting through small villages, winding around hills and
through woods, these back roads are the visions I dreamed listening to my Grandfather tell the old stories passed
down from generations. The churches - and every village has one - are worth many visits. Church graveyards also
tell many tales that bring understanding of the people and country you visit.
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And around the next turn you see the old walls of your next town to end your day. Drive through the old walled
gate archway and enter another world from the past. Slowly meander down the alt stadt streets looking for zimmer
signs and trying to choose from of all the quaint little places. Overlook the town square? Overlook the wall? Where
do you want to stay? But more on zimmers in a later article.
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Early mornings in small European communities are a true sight to behold. People bicycling to work over cobble stoned
streets. Bread delivery of freshly baked breads of all kinds - unwrapped, in open baskets. Bells of churches telling
time, calling all to begin their day. As you walk thru the little town, soak in all that surrounds you. Visit some
little stores to pick up some fresh bread, some cheeses, and maybe some wine for a picnic later in the day.
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Finally, you’ll have to hit the autobahns to get to the airport in time to catch your flight home. Yes, autobahns
do have their place. Just remember the exit sign, and giggle as you turn off the big road. Your freeway driving
will never be the same again with every exit sign you see.
And you’ll be back to your European favorite many times again in the years to come.
Click here for
- Mileage chart that helps judge distances
And from a previous post some additional hints:
Driving in Europe (especially Germany) is fun and, to Americans, on the "right" side of the road, so
it's second nature to most of us. Some quick tips on driving in much of Europe that will make your driving easier
and much more fun:
1. Autobahns are similar to US super freeways, but STAY IN RIGHT LANES EXCEPT TO PASS . If you are in the left passing lane and see in your rear view mirror a car behind you with it's LEFT TURN blinker on, get out of the fast lane fast! (Left turn blinkers today are the same as Blinking Headlights in years past. Blinking headlights is no longer proper, and in some areas it is illegal).
2. Drivers of European autobahns try to go 10 kmph faster than their speedometer will read. They all assume you will get out of their way, so they don't slow down as they come up behind you on the autobahn. 120mph (or faster) is not common, but not UNcommon either with some Porches or Mercedes. IF RAINING, drive with great caution on autobahns or you may want to get off on smaller roads. German friends tell me that Autobahns are designed more for high speed travel than shedding water as US freeways are designed.
3. Most non-autobahn roads are identified by road signs naming a larger town further down the road rather than telling the road or highway number (which is sometimes noted on very small signs if you look carefully). Driving from Rothenburg southbound? Road sign may say Munich rather than next little town of Dinkelsbühl, but if you look on your map, the Munich road will go thru Dinkelsbühl, so you will know it's the "right" road for you to take.
4. Autobahn highway numbers, i.e. A3 or A51 etc. are well marked on overhead signs and autobahn intersections are also well marked Autobahn highway numbers.
5. All small roads I have found are good all-weather roads, so Take small roads, live "on the edge" and follow little narrow two lane roads to towns or bergs that may not be on your map. Experience driving through little villages where the roadway edge shares the same spot as the edge of a 700 year old building, and you are stopped by cattle or sheep being driving down the road to a new pasture. (ask, in your best German or other native tongue, the farmer where the next town is down the road. You may know, but the experience meeting and talking with locals is wonderful).
6. Almost all German students have English classes as a part of their school requirements. So if you get lost, most children, even if they don't know the answers, make great interpreters between you and local adults.
7. Find zimmers (B&B) off the beaten path. They are really fun, and most appreciate you as you do them. And some of the morning breakfasts are unbelievably fantastic to say the least!
8. Explore the countryside. With you're
rented car you can stop and visit or drive on without waiting for a large group. You have the freedom at your fingertips,
so enjoy it to the fullest!
Driving thru France?? An additional note: The French have finally decided that speed kills - so tough (very tough)
new speeding laws have been passed. The Autoroute speed is 130 Kms. per hour....the police will usually give you
about 10 kms over the limit... but if you are caught going 30 Kms or more over the speed limit there is an on the
spot fine of 10,000 Francs ( around $1,800) and possible jail time. This also holds true for towns and other main
roads (look for speed limit signs - the limit usually varies between 40 Kmph and 90 Kmph).
Well, that’s about it for now. If you have questions regarding ANY aspect of Independent Travel,
no question is unimportant! In upcoming pages, we’ll try to
answer your questions, cover more “how to, what to, and where to” issues, and include more pictures, not only from
my camera but maybe some from yours, too!
Thanks for reading and have a wonderful trip, wherever you travel!
Bill in Houston
